The hoogheemraadschap van Rijnland
is the oldest water board still existing in the Netherlands and probably
the second oldest of all their water boards in the past. Governing institutions
of course was in the middle ages a more or less informal activity. One
did not need an office, because the secretary of the board did his work
at home, sometimes helped by one or more clerks.
In 1574 the board of Rijnland bought
an already existing house in the main street of Leiden, the heart of its
region and a rising textile manufacturing town. The house, three times
as big as the average middle-aged house, was meant as the dwelling for
the dijkgraaf (dike-reeve; the head of the board) and as stopping place
for the six hoogheemraden (the board). The dike-reeve and his wife mostly
came from the nobility and they furnished the house according to their
rank.
In the first twenty years the board
doubted if the purchase was a good bargain and considered to sell it. Possibly
the uncertain political situation in the first stage of the war against
the Spanish (1568-1648) was part of this hesitation, but also the house
was not in a good state. In 1598 a decision was made to rebuild the front.
That was a difficult thing because the municipality of Leiden planned to
build a prestigious town hall for itself on the opposite side of the street
and did not want any competition in that field. Eventually a real treaty
was concluded between the warring parties and Rijnland got consent to build
the present Renaissance façade. The exterior of the house did not
change fundamentally after that, only the windows were replaced in the
18th century by Empire windows. The original ones however were restored
in a big contemporary restoration (c. 1970).
The interior of the house underwent
many changes, the most important in the middle of the 17th century. Holland
was at that time at the height of his Golden Age prosperity and the word
was: impress. And impress the house still does, although in a very modest
Dutch way. In the middle of the 17th century Rijnland hired the famous
Dutch architect and designer Pieter Post (Mauritshuis The Hague, town hall
Maatstricht, another now nearly demolished gemeenlandshuis of Rijnland
in Halfweg, half way between Amsterdam and Haarlem). Pieter Post redecorated
the most impressive hall of the gemeenlandshuis in Leiden, the courtroom.
Dijkgraaf and hoogheemraden had juridical power in matters pertaining to
water management within their region. They had high jurisdiction, i.e.
the power to pass a death sentence. Also to brand: the marking-iron which
was ordered for the only instance we know. For a big part the courtroom
was carried out according this function: the ceiling represents a pavillion
and open air, with birds and flowers possibly a reference to old Germanic
law that justice had to be administered in public, i.e. the open air; a
chimney-painting represents Time with all his paraphernalia who offers
to Justitia the book of civil law, an allusion to the value of written
law against the more doubtful customary law, which was applied by water
boards. The painting is from Jan Lievense Sr., teacher of Rembrandt. The
whole room is draped with gold leather ornamented with Rijnlands coat of
arms, the Dutch lion and the German emperors crown, an allusion to the
oldest charter which was given to dijkgraaf and hoogheemraden in 1255 by
Roman King and count of Holland, William II. This event was depicted in
1655 on a painting by Cesar van Everdingen, one of the famous Dutch painters
of his time (an exhibition of his work will be held this year in the museum
Boymans in Rotterdam, later in Frankfurt). Another painting in this room
is a portrait of King-Stadtholder William. The portrait in itself is not
very interesting, because there are some more of this kind. But the frame,
especially ordered by Rijnland is: it represents the coat of arms of the
English Kings, the Order of the Garter, apples of Orange. Interesting is
the symbolism of the strategic talents of William: military power is symbolised
by Hercules, strategic cunning by a woman wielding a bludgeon.
There is a red room with a Rembrandtesk
chimney-painting mathematician (Jan Lievense jr); a blue room with a painting
of the gemeenlandshuis in Halfweg (Dirk Maas); an especially built archive
room with a heavy iron door, the Iron Comptoir.
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